Revisiting a place after 12 years made me realise how much I had changed in that time, how much the world had changed and how life for most Cubans had not really changed. My Cuban friend Manuel who I met again is doing the same job, living in the same falling-down, flaking-paint family house in Habana Centro, eating the same diet of beans, rice and the occasional pork on a good day. His big change was that aged 40 he had a 2-year old granddaughter! Which says a lot. But I think it says less about a promise of a great future and more about swaying rhythms, hips, an oversupply of rum and lack of birth control.
Cuba is still absolutely charming. And stunning to look at. The people deserve many medals for their patience and resilient spirit. Some changes are: more entrepreneurship, notably private taxis; many more new imported cars not just the old American 50s ones, which are still there in swarms. Habana Vieja is much more developed and commercial than before, there's even a beautiful video/media art space called La Fabrica. There are a lot more tourists now, from all over, and so many more upmarket hotels and imported European food for them. That's a huge change.
And yes the stereo types are still very much there - the cigars, the rum, the salsa and the way every single Cuban can dance like a pro. It used to make me laugh when I went there in 2000 that I was always stopped by the Police and asked what I was doing, mistaking me for a Cuban. Asking me why I was hanging out with a tourist, who was actually my co-traveller British friend. Pero soy turista, I would protest and prove that my hips could not circulate, they were by no means Cuban hips. No soy Cubana...
Life is hard everywhere. Capitalism does bring about growth and change at heightened levels. But it doesn't mean life is easier. Or does it? But freedom, as Cubans kept reminding me, is something they don't have. They can't leave the country easily, not just because of money, but because they need an invitation. Nor can many nationals of developing countries. And of course Cubans have limited freedom of expression and limited freedom to work and make more money than their allocated salary.
There did seem to be more money around however, of course a lot more tourists are going there now and enjoying Havana with its glorious Spanish architecture and the gorgeous beaches. The dual monetary system is clever for the government as it means a Cuban Peso is worth 24 Convertible Pesos (CUCs) and thus creates scarcity in the economy. So there's a local currency which means some goods are cheaper for locals but if they want to buy other goods, their currency is 24 times weaker.
So it really becomes super expensive. In Havana to get into see one of the best Reggaeton performances at la Casa de la Musica we paid 10 CUCs for Cubans (240 Cuban Pesos) and 15 CUCs for tourists. Here I was glad to be able to look Cuban. Soy Cubana ahora...when it pleases me.
La Musica- one of the most beautiful things about Cuba
Here is a gorgeous song from the film, Soy Cuba, about pre-revolutionary Cuba, a film billed as Soviet propaganda against the Americans. Loco Por Tu Amor.
And for a more contemporary picture see Charanga Habanera's Reggaeton song:
Tu llorando en Miami y yo gozando en La Habana (You're crying in Miami and I'm having fun in Havana).
What do I miss most about coming back to London? Why does nobody flirt in this city (at least when sober)? They seem to have forgotten how. They have moved from being in their bodies into being in their heads. Flirting is an important human interaction, that makes you feel alive!
I miss you, Cuba...hasta pronto!
And the whole Cuban-American story, well that's enough to make you cry (in Miami or in London).
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| Beach at Varadero |
